Living off the Land in the Inner Hebrides

A photo diary from a week of sailing and foraging off the coast of Scotland

I have just returned from a slightly different sailing week for me. Instead of being on Kismet I joined the Sail Britain boat Merlin as first mate for a week of coastal foraging.

We cruised from Mallaig around the Isle of Skye and the Small Isles on the Scottish West Coast. It’s a remote part of Scotland, where phones, technology, and city life were rapidly forgotten, and we instead became immersed in nature in secluded anchorages, surrounded by flora and fauna.

Every day, we explored coastal forests and beaches to see what we could gather, guided by local foraging expert Mark Williams (author of The Coastal Forager). Because I’ve been off-grid, this week’s post is a short visual journey through the iconic landscapes, wildlife, and textures of the Inner Hebrides.

During this trip I found myself really exploring the colours and textures of Scotland’s shorelines, and tried to capture their various aspects with my old camera. Something about the rocky, seaweed-strewn shores and the faded hilly backdrops is so iconic.

Foraging along the shoreline.

Sunset over our anchorage in Loch Nevis.

Our neighbours for the night. Beautiful old, wooden sailboat that alongside the dramatic backdrop made it feel like a different era.

During our walks I tried in particular to not only look at the big vistas and dramatic landscapes, but to also notice the tiny details and little moments of beauty that happen everywhere around us.

A meadow after rain.

Nature creates beauty everywhere you look.

Bladder wrack in the shallows, made golden by the beaming sun.

Contrasting colours as a red dragonfly landed on a lily pad.

The sailing between the Isle of Eigg, Isle of Skye and the mainland shore this far north has its own iconic beauty. It’s often overcast, or even rainy, with spells of sunlight barely breaking through, making the light always variable and ethereal.

Looking out at sea from the Isle of Eigg on an overcast afternoon.

I sometimes dream of having a classic wooden boat.

The sea is rich and teeming with life. You often sail past big feeds, and that can be the best time to see the diversity of birds, as well as spotting whales and dolphins.

The elegant gannet soaring across the sky, scanning the water for food.

I had no idea of the wealth of things you can forage and eat along the British shores. So much to learn and try, and thanks to Mark we got to enjoy some incredible foraged recipes.

So many seaweeds are edible and delicious. We enjoyed everything from seaweed pasta, to sauces, broths and even pickled seaweed. Laver (nori) adds deep umami flavour to everything you put it in.

Learning about mushroom identification.

Finally finding chanterelles. These were enjoyed for delicious dinners two nights in a row.

The wildlife around these parts is really something special. One of the most common things to see are seals, and though we always see them, I never get tired of it. I think seals know how to enjoy simple things in life. They are such beautiful, curious creatures.

Happy seal in the sun on top of a rock.

Resting on a bed of seaweed, lazily glancing up as we sail past.

Dolphins are beautiful and curious too, but nearly impossible to get a good picture of in some conditions. They appear briefly as if to say hi and then swim off into the distance. Even when you miss a shot the textures and colours can be striking.

I’ve always thought the Isle of Eigg looks like the dorsal fin of a dolphin or whale, so getting this shot was a particular joy.

Working aboard Merlin for a week and getting to return to West Coast sailing for the first time since my circumnavigation of Scotland last year was magical. I have really missed the unique landscapes and getting to immerse myself in sailing there again has been a well-needed break.

Of course, since it is Scotland, you often come across abandoned castles and fortifications.

Water lilies in a forest pond along the last walk of the week.

I can look out across Hebridean seas and Scotland’s ancient shores forever, dreaming.

Thank you for reading and being here. Next week I’ll return to my more typical essay posts. Please consider subscribing if you are new here! It really helps support my writing and sailing journey.

Fair winds!